H’Kusam Mountain via the Stowe Creek Trail

I’m the classic weekend warrior. I only have one day a week to get
out and make mountaineering magic happen. Though there is a ridiculous number
of opportunities on Vancouver Island for outdoor adventure, Phil and I are
exhausting the climbs that are possible to do as day hikes.

Phil walking in the krumholtz on our way back from the summit.

Already we are pushing far up-island. Many of our Sunday adventures require more than five hours of driving, including early 5 am departures from Nanaimo. The Prince of Wales Range is proving to be a great location for new hikes. On Sunday, October 4th, Phil hosted an Island Mountain Ramblers event, a hike up H’kusam Mountain. Four of us met and hiked this objective, and three of us made the summit!

There are several trails used to access this peak. Two of them
form a portion of the trail used for the H’kusam Climb, an annual trail-running
event hosted out of Seyward. We used the Stowe Creek Trail, accessed off the
Stowe Creek Main Line. Driving north about 60 kilometres from Campbell River,
turn right off the highway onto Timber Road and take the left fork. The Stowe
Creek Main Line follows the route used for the H’kusam Climb and as such, some
maps have the road marked as a trail. It’s definitely a road, but only a
vehicle with high clearance and 4WD will be able to negotiate the crossditches
and creek crossing to make it to the start of the trail. I left my Outback near
the highway and hopped into Phil’s Jeep Liberty. The larger vehicle made it to
the trailhead at 700 metres of elevation with little challenge.

The air was cold, with the thermometer in my car reading two
degrees when we started driving up the logging road. We started our hike at
8:45 am, and within minutes we passed the bullet-pummeled sign that marks the
start of the Stowe Creek Trail. The trail is regularly used by race participants
and therefore is well planned, booted, trimmed, and flagged. Additional features
include: bridges to aid in water crossings, a hand line on the upper slope of
the trail, and an emergency shelter with a pit toilet.

The sun peaking through the forest as we gain elevation

The initial section of the hike follows hard-packed logging roads,
but after several kilometres the trail hits the second growth forest and softer
trails. Elevation gain is gentle as the trail snakes up the mountain. Eventually
the trees part and the soft forest floor gives way to loose rock (around 1180
metres). The parting trees expose the ridge looming far above and the col the H’Kusam
Climb passes over (not our
destination on this day). A hand line stretches down the hill, and shortly
after the start of the line, the trail splits. The right hand route follows the
race trail over the col and down to Sayward, while the route to H’kusam’s
summit continues up the hill for a stretch before eventually turning 90 degrees
to the left (south). The route to the summit leads through some light bush
which quickly gives way to a small creek crossing and a steep ascent up a
southerly slope to the cirque below the ridge of peaks above.

As we climbed, the view opened to spectacular vistas of the Johnstone
Strait and the mountain ranges on the mainland. There was no evidence of snow
in the cirque, a feature that most of our beta indicated we would find. We were
hoping to find a tongue of snow leading up a couloir to the main summit, but no
such luck!

at the entry to the krumholz at the circque

We approached the cirque and made a choice to gain a ridge to the
left (east). It provided easy access to the main route, though trail markings
and cairns disappear. Once below the summit block, some poor choices cost us
time. First, we gained too much elevation on the route. Next, Phil tried a gully
on the far left of the massif; it would have required protection that we
didn’t have. Third, I hemmed and hawed before traversing the steep scree slope
toward the gully we first noticed upon entering the cirque, to the right of the
main summit block.

Looking up the gully which leads to the ridge

As Phil negotiated the complicated gully to the northeast, I
continued toward the long gully. I carefully clambered down to the gully and
started the long ascent. It’s the crux of the hike and though it’s a class
three scramble, you should have the stomach for a steep angle and long slope.
The biggest challenge is getting over a large boulder wedged in the gully. Lots
of good hand- and footholds make it easy to get up, but care should be taken.
The gully terminates in a col between two bumps. Once at the top, I turned left
toward the summit and laughed. The slope on the opposing side of the mountain
is ….easy. I was at the summit within a few minutes.

From the top of the long choss gully on H’Kusam’s Ridge

I stood at the summit, admiring the view of the surrounding
terrain: Johnstone Strait, other peaks in the Prince of Wales Range, and the
snow-covered coastal peaks across the strait. I stood quietly, listening for
the other hikers…. nothing.  I returned to the gully and called out to
the rest of my party. One had turned back, but the two others, independent of
each other, were working their way either to or up the gully. Eventually both
made their way to the top of the gully and to the summit. 

Looking east from the H’Kusam’s summit over Johnstone Straight

The summit is broad, easy to hike, and is accompanied by geodesic
points and a survey tripod. We signed the register and enjoyed the view.
 Phil J. and I took a few minutes to scoot across to a sub peak, just to
make sure that it wasn’t at a higher elevation. We were back at the main summit
within ten minutes, and we lounged in the sun eating our lunch and chit
chatting about the route – we were in no hurry.

Looking South From H’Kusam’s summit

Descending the gully was easier than I expected, but slow. We
stayed close together so we wouldn’t set rock loose onto each other. We
descended the full length of the slope to the cirque below. At the bottom, we
worked our way back to the original route and collected the fourth hiker before
heading back to the car.

Though the hike took longer than we anticipated we made it back to
the cars with plenty of daylight remaining. The hike and views were definitely
worth the long drive. Soon we will be driving longer than hiking. For those who
are considering this hike, check out the route I posted and consider printing a
map that has the route details on it – it will save you a lot of time.  

I can’t wait to get back to this area! Phil and I are planning a trip using
Bill’s Trail coming up from Sayward to Springer and Stowe. See you out there!

View album of 36 photographs from this hike…